Дата публикации: 2018-05-27 12:59
But no talk about statement watches is ever complete without mentioning Richard Mille. The brand is known for its avant-garde watchmaking and aggressive design, as well as its obscene pricing which its clientele take as a perk, not as a deterrent. The RM66-58 Jean Todt 55th Anniversary was first introduced at SIHH 7567. It features a case made of high-tech material, namely TPT Quartz, which consists of hundreds of layers of quartz fibres. Like the Hublot Big Bang Unico Red Magic, the RM66-58 Jean Todt is a flyback chronograph with a skeletonised dial. But in addition, it boasts an annual calendar for added functionality. Not for the faint-hearted, the watch retails at USD695,555 (SGD687,876), almost four times the price of the Hublot Big Bang Unico Red Magic. The silver lining here is that the RM66-58 is one of Richard Mille 8767 s best value-for-money (not a joke) and least expensive timepieces (sadly, also not a joke).
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The rubber strap is an integral part of the Big Bang&rsquo s identity, grounding the luxury watch in practicality &ndash and even here, Hublot have managed to inject personality. The diamond tread-like pattern (it vaguely reminded me of a waffle iron) is distinctive and almost aggressive. Certainly not boring. Visually the hooded lugs conceal the point where strap meets case, adding to the impression of a seamless whole. The strap is secured by a single fold deployant with a characteristically big and chunky buckle. While it&rsquo s solid and secure, I must admit I found the lines a little too sharply machined to be comfortable.
Gold watches dominate the wrist, and not just visually. A heavy gold watch can be unbalanced and ungainly to wear. The Spirit of Big Bang suffers from none of these complaints, the curved case hugs the wrist. Well-balanced and secure, it&rsquo s a real joy to wear. It&rsquo s also an unmissable watch that makes a bold statement with a whole lot of solid gold real estate.
Design-wise the essence of the Big Bang is clearly present, with the &lsquo H&rsquo shaped screws, sandwiched case construction using high tech materials and cut-away elements. Combining all this with the elongated tonneau creates an entirely new watch, the curving lines presenting a softer, more elegant version of the Big Bang.
Fusion is about more than just unconventional material hybrids as the Big Bang demonstrates a stylistic fusion too the traditional tropes of luxury sports watch design are partnered with a far more industrial aesthetic &ndash heavy knurling on the bezel edge and exposed screws (the proprietary H-shaped bit is a nice touch) really works. It might sound like something cribbed from a press release but to appreciate the Big Bang you really do need to understand the importance played by the concept of fusion in their design process. The interplay of materials and textures is key to this watch&rsquo s appeal and what makes it so fun to wear.
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The Spirit has a thick rubber strap, covered with alligator and very much in keeping with the brand&rsquo s philosophy of fusion. The strap balances the heavy Hublot well, and indeed anything slimmer would leave the watch feeling top heavy. As it is, the tapering band continues the curve of the case, creating a cohesive, comfortable whole.
Felix brings to his role as Editor of Time+Tide many years experience writing about watches, and a passion for all things horological. While Felix appreciates the technical side of watches, it’s really the watch in the context of style and culture that he finds fascinating.
The Hublot Big Bang Unico Red Magic caters to one specific audience, and that audience consists of people who want a bold, trendy statement watch. Made in a limited edition run of 555 pieces, the watch retails at SGD87,755 (or CHF79,955). In the grand scheme of statement watches, the Big Bang Unico Red Magic does offer the highest loudness to price ratio, and that 8767 s value for anyone looking to attract attention.